In this case, I would then have to set the DR to 400% and the ISO to at least 800, and the photo shall be taken at the original exposure (i.e. Then adjust your exposure until the bulk of the shadows are in the left 1/3 to 1/4 of the histogram, not stacked up on the left wall. Subscribe to learn even more about your Fujifilm via email. You can only get your camera’s D-Rng setting applied if you hit “Auto” for the tonal adjustments. Switch the drive mode into BKT and hold down the shutter. Fuji X Forum. Discussion in 'All X100 Series (X100, S, T, F, V), X70, XF10' started by LoneTreeBeer, Aug 25, 2020. Paste as plain text instead, × Colin. 3. Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. So am I correct to assume that, by switching from DR100% to DR200%, the exposure (only the aperture/speed parameters) of my RAW file will be affected ? If one or two stops of aperture or shutter speed change matter that much to your creative intent, you can try offsetting it by adjusting your “other” variable (stopping down your aperture to regain a slower shutter speed, etc). The first step in optimizing D-Rng is knowing which setting you should use. When I press the front wheel, I can change the exposure (+/-). Thanks, John, for this and some other interesting pieces you have written on the Fuji settings for optimising dynamic range. No. Back-Button Focus is STILL Relevant in Today’s Mirrorless Cameras, Fujifilm Announces Photographer’s Professional Services Program, Mirrorless Camera Photography Tips for New Owners (and Old), D-Rng underexposes by reducing the sensor. I just called Fuji tech in NJ to ask if DRO has ANY effect on RAW files…the answer is NO. It’s not, however, as powerful as those sliders. Some raw software does not apply the gain. But I wonder what I should be shooting at when taking street shots and do not have the time to make these adjustments ‘on the fly’. Yes, just the problem for many photographers is that the RAW processors that do apply the processing don’t really advertise that they’re doing it, and there’s no way to make direct inputs to how the gain is applied in post. If I’m in high-contrast lighting and want DR Auto to work, I’ll just bump up my ISO to 320. D-Rng adjusts the exposure in an attempt to protect the highlights. Moreover- the X100V doesn't have to be a solution for me, to say all this. The default settings start looking a bit flat in even a little overcast or in shade. A rather important detail. But if you don’t mess around with RAW files, or if you need a photo straight out of camera now, D-Rng is great for high-contrast scenes. You’re welcome! Just to confirm. I’ve been using D Range Optimizer lately with my XT3 … often with the Velvia sim. I don’t intend to bother you but the subject is actually extremely interesting and I really appreciated your detailed and documented explainations and would love to have your point of view on this : In my understanding, DR modes affect the RAW because the exposure (speed/aperture, ISO excluded) should not be the same at DR100% and DR 200% : lets say I shoot 2 pictures with the following settings : Aperture fixed at f/t2, auto speed, auto ISO : -First picture shot at ISO 200, DR100%: I manage to get a correct exposure (no exposure to the right at all, just an average exposure to get good shadows and not to blown highlights), I am getting a correctly exposed RAW file. No one looking at your photos is going to notice an increase in noise from 160 to 320. Only expose to the left when you really need to protect the highlights. This is a good way to get some blue back in an otherwise bright sky, for example. But then you have to be careful with how your RAW converter treats the file. ). It affects your in-camera histogram that you might be using to calculate your RAW exposure, and some RAW converters will read the DR setting written to the RAW file. As for the ISO values, those are new with the latest generation of cameras and I’ve made a note of it. Even on the now-ancient X-T1. Do you think if you give such programs a Fuji RAF file that has been exposed normally as determined by the camera that these programs will have enough latitude within the raw file that they produce similar or better results automatically? D-Rng isn’t intended to fix all contrasty scenes, but you should be familiar with this great tool when shooting Fujifilm X cameras! Bracketing modes won’t work in those situations. One stop (three clicks) – use DR200%. So when the camera is going to switch to DR200% ISO 400, my speed should also be increased (to lower my exposure, preserve my highlights and apply the ISO 400 only to the darker parts afterwards). Iew Premium Member. Unless you’re in the brightest of scenes, the camera will use an ISO setting that will give you either DR200 or 400. The differences are subtle, so I’ve included the histograms. May I just need to practice a lot more. RAW is electronic information (maybe a better term out there) written to the sensor. Highlights are darkened, shadows are darkened even more.», «The RAW file is the RAW file, as read out by the sensor before processing. Godox XProx-F, AD200, V860IIF. Is DR100 the reference to your ‘high contrast’ comment? You can’t apply the camera’s D-Rng setting manually.   Your link has been automatically embedded. The process can be equated to decreasing the Exposure slider and increasing the Shadow slider in Photoshop, Lightroom, Capture One, and many other photo processing programs. It seems to be something of a tricky subject. The raw file will be underexposed by 2 stops when using dr400%. I assume the simple process would be to set a desired shutter and aperture, leave the ISO in Auto, and use the exposure compensation dial to knock it down. Now adjust your exposure until the highlights come off of the right wall. Hi John and thanks for the usefull information. It’s important to have a basic, simple understanding of how D-Rng works in order to use it properly.